SKINCARE 101: Everything you should know about double cleansing.

2:51:00 AM Mei B 1 Comments




The first step of a proper AM or PM skincare routine is always cleansing, and double cleansing is one of the most important steps of the famous Korean 10-step skincare routine, but only few understand the reason we should do it. I mean, why should we waste our time and money cleansing twice using two different products when we can just wipe our eye and lip makeup and use a foam cleanser if we are feeling extra? Isn't it the same thing?
Well the answer is NO, it's not. So together, let's discover why through this article

But before we start, I wanna let you know that this post is the fourth part of my "Skincare 101" series. If you haven't checked the previous parts yet, make sure to check them out they are really full of interesting stuff. (if I had to say so myself)

- What is your skin type? 
- Basic Korean skincare routine
10 not so common ingredients widely used in K-beauty
- Double cleansing: why should we double cleanse? ← We are here
- Exfoliation: Chemical vs Physical
- Wash-off masks: Types and purposes
- Toners: Types, and how are they different from western toners?
- Acids and Actives: Vitamin C, BHA and AHA
- First essences: What are they exactly?
- Serums, Ampoules: What is the difference?
- Moisturisers: Lotion, Emulsion, Gel and Cream: What's the difference?
- Eye creams: Why should you use and eye cream?
- Sheet masks: Tips and Tricks
- Pores: how to deal with them?
- Acne: Products that helped me and my siblings to get rid of my acne.
Ps: Keep in mind that I will include in each step some recommendations by skin type.



First of all,

What does double cleansing mean?

Double cleansing is a two step process that involves using two kinds of cleansers:
- An oil or balm cleanser to dissolve all the stubborn long lasting and high coverage makeup, as well as some other oil based particles.
- A water based cleanser (foam or gel cleanser): to remove any oil residue as well as water based particles. This step can be assisted with a mechanical tool whether it's a sponge or a brush to deep cleanse and kinda micro exfoliate.


What makes it better than the cleansing method we are used to?

Cleansing is an important step of our skincare routine. We need to remove all the stuff that built up on our skin throughout the day like makeup, sunscreen, dead skin cells, excess oil, dirt, pollution particles and so. This way when you layer other products on your skin they would be fully absorbed into your skin thus will be effective. Also, leaving all of these stuff on your skin day after day will clog your pores and irritate your skin, and cause some quite nasty pimples that we don't wanna deal with.

Up to just few years ago, a foam cleanser was largely enough to deal with all of these unwanted particles and clean our skin, but back then we didn't have high coverage long lasting foundations and waterproof makeup that are designed to stay put and won't budge by using water based cleansers alone (just try it yourself and then use a cotton pad to check if there is anything left, I'm sure you'll find lots and lots of makeup left), that's why they thought about new appropriate cleansing methods to deal with them.

Skincare is actually meant to take care of your skin problems instead of concealing them with layers of high coverage makeup, and by skipping just this one important step, you won't only prevent your skincare from reaching your skin and doing their job, but also allow these products to build up on your skin, clog your pores, irritate and sensitize your skin and make it look dull and bumpy, and cause more ugly pimples, acne scars, redness and hyperpigmentation that you wanted to cover in the first place but ended up worsening instead, and thus you'll be stuck in a vicious circle.

So just by doing this step properly, you will avoid more skin problems, you'll allow your skincare to do its job properly, thus you won't need to apply as many layers/long lasting makeup frequently and you'll probably become confident about showing your bare skin to the world.

What do you think? isn't it worth it? I bet it is.

Should I double cleanse even on days I don't wear makeup?

It's fine to use only a foam cleanser, but I personally prefer double cleansing even when I'm staying at home. I just feel like my skin is much much smoother when I only use a foam cleanser.
Usually oil and water don't really mix together so to get rid of all these oil based impurities, SPF and sebum that built up our skin throughout the day, we need to use an oil to attract it and dissolve the hardened above mentioned stuff and free your pores, so that my face will be fully ready to absorb all the goodies I'm planning to layer over it (I don't wanna spend lots of money on these products and then don't benefit from them right?)


What types of oils are usually used in these cleansers?

Depending on the cleanser, you can find many different types of oils, but here are some of the most used oils, and some of their benefits:

- Mineral Oil:
There are some that say mineral oil is not the greatest ingredient for the skin, unfortunately It's commonly used in beauty products and usually included for its cheap price.


- Coconut Oil:
Coconut Oil is a great natural ingredient for the skin. It works to moisturize and has many anti-aging properties. It also helps the exfoliation process and acts as a makeup remover.


- Olive Oil:
One of my favorite oils to eat and use for beauty purposes. Not only it is delicious, it also is packed with antioxidants that are known for their anti-aging properties. It doesn't clog your pores and it enhances exfoliation, resulting in fresh, glowing skin.


- Grapeseed oil:
Just like olive oil, grapeseed oil does not clog the pores, and in addition to that it has countless skin benefits. It is a great moisturizer for dry skin, does a nice job healing scars, regenerating and tightening the skin, has anti aging properties, lightens dark under eye circles and more.


- Apricot Oil:
Apricot is great for moisturizing and healing damaged skin as well as minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. In top of that, it is odorless.


- Camellia Oil:
It's easily absorbed by the skin and helps to nourish the skin with its healthful anti oxidizing properties. It can also be used as a makeup remover.


Jojoba Oil:
Jojoba Oil acts as a natural skin conditioner.


- Rice Bran Oil:
Rice Bran Oil is full of antioxidants that protect the skin. It is a super moisturizing ingredient and it's a great ingredient for Winter weather. It's light so it's also compatible with oily skin. It also helps maintain your youthful glow by brightening the skin, reducing dark spots and smoothing the skin out and fighting aging factors.


- Moringa Oil
Moringa oil protects dry skin, moisturizes dry it, absorbs easily and creates radiant skin. This is a revered ingredient used since the times of the ancient Romans, Greeks and Egyptians. It also has anti-aging and dark spot reducing abilities.


- Shea Butter:
Shea butter is extremely moisturising and nourishing to the skin, reduces inflammation, smoothes and softens the skin as well as strengthens it and reduces wrinkles appearance.


- Sesame oil:
Sesame oil is easily absorbed into the skin to nourish it deep inside and is rich with antioxidants that promote soft skin, as well as minerals, and is known for its antibacterial and antiinflammatory properties.


But I have an oily skin. Should I use an oil cleanser too?

Yes. Oil cleansers won't make your skin oilier nor cause more breakouts, if anything they would help to dissolve all these complexes formed by excess sebum and particles hanging in the air that would clog your pores afterwards and break you out. Just make sure to emulsify your oil cleanser with water before rinsing it off, and use a good oil cleanser that doesn't leave a residue on your skin (like the face shop oil cleanser.. it leaves a super greasy residue that's hard to get rid of even with a good foam cleanser, and it broke many people out, my sister included)


What about foam cleansers? is there anything to look for?

To pick the right product for your skin, you have to keep in mind the following foam cleanser properties:

- Skin type:
Each of us is born with a different skin type and should respect it. Many cleansers can be used by all skin types but many others are created for specific skin types and you should keep this in mind otherwise you might harm your skin. (if you aren't sure about your skin type, check my post here where I explained every skin type traits and needs)

- Is it drying? 
Most foam cleansers make your skin feel tight and squeaky clean, and it's not good for the skin. You should look for cleansers that clean your face without stripping it from its natural oils, especially if you have a dry skin
PS: if you have a dry skin, stay away from anything that says Acne, sebum, oil control, pores and so on since they can be quite drying.

- What is its pH?
The skin's natural pH is 5.5, so to keep it balanced, you should use cleansers with the same pH otherwise you would cause a loss of moisture as well as more acne (especially after using cleansers with high pH levels)

- Does it treat acne?
For those of us who are suffering from an acne prone skin, treating our acne starts from using an appropriate cleanser. Fortunately, there are many cleansers on the market that target acne and pore problems, so look for them.

- Is it brightening?
Koreans are obsessed with bright, pale and glowing skin so it's common to find cleansers with brightening properties.

- Does it have a fragrance?
Fragrance can break some people with sensitive skin out, and strong overpowering smells are really bothering. So if you are gonna use a cleanser everyday twice a day, you better know what it smells like and choose a scent that you actually enjoy.



And why is everybody's preoccupied by cleansers' pH?

This post explains it all but long story short: Our skin has an acidic pH that helps it resist bacteria, lock in water and preserve the moisture barrier. By using cleansers with high (alkaline) pH, you break this balance and end up with a dehydrated (since it's no longer able to lock in the moisture) acne prone skin since your skin becomes an optimal environment for bacteria and other microorganisms to grow and reproduce and thus cause more trouble.


Any recommendation?

As promised, I'm gonna include in each category a bunch of recommendations by skin type.

First cleanser:

I've tried a bunch of oil cleansers but the ones that stand out the most for me are the following:


1- Heimish All Clean Balm:



This one has been on everyone and their mother's 2016 favorites (including mine hihih, you can check the full list here if interested). The ones who created this balm were working for Banila Co., and after leaving they decided to take the Banila Co clean it Zero balm and renovate it, and they came with this version that is in my opinion much much better, both in terms of ingredients and efficacy, and is suitable for all skin types. You can find my full review here as well as a little comparison.

Get yours at Amazon for $16.65


2- TroiAreuke Acsen Oil Cut Cleansing:


This oil-free cleanser works just as well as an oil/balm cleanser, while at the same time removes the extra keratin on your skin and micro-peels it thank to the papaya extract, and also reduces acne and prevents it from getting sur-infected. This is in my opinion the best cleanser for people suffering from acne or skin sensitivities. Pricey, but really worth it (this brand over all isn't hyped for nothing imo)

Get it from Amazon for $38



3- Banila Co. Clean It Zero:


Although Heimish balm cleanser is better, this one is still worth mentioning. It does an awesome job removing makeup and comes in 3 different types: the original one for all skin types, Resveratrol for oily and combination skin types, Radiance for dry lackluster skin and purity for sensitive skin.
This has been a k-beauty cult for a long time, and even now there are still some people who swear with it.

Get it: Banila Clean It Zero Original, $17, Amazon; Banila co Clean It Zero Resveratrol, $18, Amazon; Banila co Clean It Zero Radiance, $18, Amazon; Banila co Clean It Zero Purity, $19, Amazon;



4- Klairs Gentle Black Deep Cleansing Oil:

Just like the other Klairs products, this oil cleanser can be used by everyone but is specifically designed for people with sensitive skin thanks to its hypoallergenic formula and is made of some vegetable oils that allow a mild yet effective cleansing. Another thing that made me like this cleanser is that it's really smooth, unlike the other oil cleansers (let's say this one feels like argan oil while the other cleansers feel like cooking oil? kinda thin and feels like there are some micro granules in it that doesn't make it feel as smooth.. I'm rambling but hope you got what I mean lol), and doesn't leave a greasy residue that's a pain to rinse off.

Get it: At Amazon for $18.20, or Wishtrend for $22.90



Second Cleanser:

I used to think that foam cleansers aren't worth the money, so I've always made my own cleanser but still purchased some that ended up proving my point, but recently I came across some really good cleansers that changed my mind. (I also became lazier than I used to, so I prefer to pay for cleansers than make one that meets my needs). Here are some of these awesome ones:


1- COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser:


Another product that was practically on every Best of 2016 list. It is on the cheap side of cleansers yet does its job effectively without stripping your skin from its natural oils. it also has a low pH level and is suitable for all skin types.

Get yours at Amazon for $10 or Wishtrend for $9.35


2- Neogen Real Fresh Foam Cleanser:




Quite an innovative product. This foam cleanser comes with actual fruit or herbs fermenting in the bottom of the bottle to provide real amino acids and vitamins for the skin. It's made of lots and lots of good stuff and real plants extracts instead of being filled with chemicals. Unlike some other foam cleansers I've tried before, this cleanser's lather is really thick and you feel like your skin is actually absorbing all the good stuff instead of watery thin bubbles.
It comes in four different types: Cranberries for anti-aging, Blueberry for moisturising, Green Tea for soothing and Cereals for brightening.

Get yours at Amazon for $19


3- Klairs Rich Moist Foaming Cleanser:



This is a mild cleanser that cleanses, soothes and moisturises the skin at the same time, which makes it really suitable for dry and sensitive skin (just like almost every klairs product out there).

Get yours at Amazon for $17.90 or Wishtrend for $16.99


4- Etude house AC Clinic Daily foam cleanser:



Many of my friends with oily skin swear by this cleanser. Yeah it has a high pH level (All u have to do is to use a toner within the 3 secondes that follow cleansing your face to balance your skin pH again. which seems kinda hard to do but...) but, it really does what it claims: it controls sebum production and reduces acne (a lot if my friends are anything to judge by). Keep in mind that it might dry your skin out if you don't have an oily skin.

Get it at Amazon for $12


That's it for today, hope it was helpful and let me know in a comment down below what are your favorite cleansers.
Have a lovely day everyone ♥


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1 comment:

  1. I thought the troiareuke cleanser works as a second cleanser. Thank you for letting me know that it works both ways.

    ReplyDelete